Aaron tells me that in fact the water in this cave is fairly new and has been steadily rising over the centuries. As we begin to descend into the water I am amazed at just how crystal clear the fresh water is, the visibility is incredible, despite the lack of natural light and I soon lose my initial fear. Cenote diving isn’t cave diving in the truest sense (for which you need specialist certification and nerves of steel), because when you get below the small entry points they actually open up into immense cathedral-like caverns where it is almost impossible to get lost. Aaron leads the way, following a pre-placed line to the bottom of the cave and as am surprised to see fish and even a turtle swim gracefully by.
I gaze in wonder at my surroundings, drooping stalagtites and stalagmites protrude to create an otherworldly feeling reminiscent of a journey to the centre of the earth. Even the water changes its appearance to give the impression of layers of air, but it’s just a different kind of water says my guide through the high tech inbuilt microphone system in my mask. At the bottom of the cave we find what Aaron has been so excited to show me. “He is maybe two thousand years old” he says, pointing at the human skull, sitting incongruously on a rock shelf next to a pile of bones. Nearby is a pair of perfectly preserved ceramic jars about the size of a keg of beer- each containing yet more bones. “They are from animals- probably cows” and on the cave wall is a painting of what looks like a horse running.
The cenotes were seen by the ancient Mayan civilisation, which flourished in Central America until the coming of the Spanish in the sixteenth century, as gateways to the afterlife. Many of the caves were then dry and became used as burial chambers and places where human and animal sacrifices took place. Since the conquistadors effectively ended many of the traditional practices and Christianity took hold, the cenotes were left to disappear into the jungle and were forgotten about for several hundred years. It wasn’t until the first European explorers and anthropologists became interested in the Maya in the nineteenth century and discovered such architectural riches as Chichen Itza and Uxmal, that cenotes were even heard of. Sketches were made and later photographs taken of these natural wonders but it wasn’t really until the 1970s that the first intrepid divers decided to explore the underwater treasures. Even now only a handful of the cenotes have ever been dived and there are still over 3000 left undiscovered. Aaron hopes to enable more visitors to experience what he has seen and is one of only a couple of qualified diving guides that operate in the region.
As we slowly ascend toward the moon-like circle of light above I feel a tremendous sense of tranquility, but also real privilege to have been able to explore this fascinating underground world. It only felt like we were under water for five minutes but Aaron smiles and shows me his watch and I am stunned to realize that we have actually been submerged for over half an hour. “It’s the magic of the Maya” he chuckles as we climb out into the emerald lushness of the Mexican Jungle.