Day 6 - Orosi to Humo (via Puriail), Duration: 10hrs
On the map this looked like a relatively straight forward day however it turned out to be a lot harder than we hoped with hills that were much longer and steeper than we were expecting. We walked for 7 hrs without encountering any other signs of life so started to doubt ourselves and thought we may have taken a wrong turning, however soon enough we came across Humo, our destination for the day. Rather than try and find somewhere to stay in Humo, we taxied up to a nearby town and stayed in a hotel there, when we told them we were crossing Costa on foot, they turned on their hot tub for us – result!
Day 7 - Humo to San Jaquine, Duration: 11hrs
We taxied back down to Humo. Since midway through day six we had been walking through sugarcane country, but now we where in the heart of it. The first half of day 7 took us through flat open expanses of sugarcane fields. We had dropped down in altitude again by now and it was very hot a dusty, however we were pretty used to the heat and we were also getting fit so we made good progress. The last few hrs of the day were spent on a steep incline up to our destination of San Jaquine where we met a lovely woman who let us sleep on the floor of her saloon!
Day 8 - San Jaquine – Barbilla Ranger Station, Duration: 12.5 hrs
Like day 5, this was another huge day but we needed to do it to stay on target. We would be crossing dense jungle so needed a guide, luckily the saloon owner from the night before knew of an indigenous family that might be walking part of our route. She put us in touch and we set of to meet up with them. We were desperate to reach our destination but the indigenous tribe just did not think it was possible. They took us a far as their village where they said we should stay for the night and continue the following day, we really needed to make good progress though, and whether you’re in London or a tiny indigenous village in the clearing of a jungle – money talks – we handed over enough that meant the distance was doable after all and were given a 13 year old boy to guide us the rest of our way. What followed was 7hrs of knee deep, sucking mud and dense jungle. Not pleasant but it made the site of the ranger station all the more welcoming when we got there.
Day 9 Barbilla Ranger Station to Estrada, Duration: 8 hrs
After a comfortable night spent in the ranger station we set of for Estrada. For the first time on the trek, we dared to believe we might do this in the 10 days. If we reached Estrada by the end of the day, it would just be a short 15km trek across flat ground to the Caribbean sea the next day – easy. After about 5 hrs it became apparent we had missed a turning, we couldn’t find it and decided to keep going on the track we were on as it would bring us out into a town and we would be able to work out where we were again. This would add about 15km onto our day and mean it was unlikely we would reach Estrada. we had to be off the roads by the evening as in this area a lot of drugs are trafficked up from south America meaning there are quite a few gangs. After making such good progress up until this point it was so frustrating thinking we may not make it within 10 days. Also we had more immediate problems of being stuck on the wrong side of some dodgy towns with nowhere to stay. After walking next to the highway for a few hours (very unpleasant but made up time), we came across some potential accommodation. When we checked it out, the room was basically a garage with mirrors on the ceiling, headboard and walls and the owner was surprised that we wanted it until 6 the next morning (I think most people take it for a couple of hours), however it was in a beautiful setting next to a river and at least we would be safe for the night.
Day 10 - Dodgy Garage / Brothel – Caribbean Sea, Duration: 8hrs
Although we messed up on day 9 we were still within range of the Caribbean. We set off and as we had done the day before, spent a couple of hours walking along the side of a highway. There is nothing pleasant about this. Massive trucks and juggernaughts come thundering past jut a few feet away, the noise and smell is terrible and we felt really exposed and vulnerable. The turning off the highway was really welcome and after a couple of kms of quiet track we reached Estrada, the town we hoped to spend the previous night in. We went to a shop and bought breakfast (we had eaten all of the food we bought for the trek). We took our time as we just had 15km to walk and about 6hrs in which to do it. Again we got the feeling that barring any sort of disaster we would complete the trek within 10 days. We set off and followed the track until it ran out, we then had to jump onto a railway line and just follow it until it hit the beach. After a few hot, but flat hours of walking we heard waves, we then saw a few flashes of blue through the trees, then as the railway turned to follow the beach we were presented with the beautiful Caribbean Sea. We’d done it! All that was left to do was to take our shoes off and stand in the sea that had been our target for the last 10 days. As with all expeditions like this, rather than an ecstatic feeling, we felt that slow build up of achievement that lasts for a long time, every day had been challenging in some way or another and it feels great to have achieved what we set out to do especially as a husband and wife team
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